There are two aspects of foundations which require selection – the form and the color. The first thing you have to decide on is the form of the foundation. Some forms are more suited to certain skin types than others. A dry skin is best served by an oil based foundation (cream type) as this gives additional moisture. An oily skin requires a less oily foundation – even oil free, water based one (cake or stick form). For normal skin it is very easy to choose. Emulsions and liquid foundations can be formulated to suit all skin types. So you must stick to the recommendations on the label.

Skin type apart, age and the basic condition of your skin would also influence the choice of your foundation. The better condition of the skin, the thinner should the foundation be; so light sheer liquids are good on young or fine skins. A light liquid may also be the best choice for an older skin, though two coasts may be required to give full coverage; a heavier product on such a skin may emphasize the lines and the skin is in a poor condition (has an uneven color or tone or is blemished) then a heavier foundation (cream or stick) will give a better appearance. If you have a fine skin and you want a natural appearance, then use the gel foundations.

If you are already using a foundation but not sure to which category it belongs, you can find this out by putting a drop of the foundation into a dish of water. If the foundation disperses easily and can be stirred into the water to form a cloudy liquid, it is predominantly water based and can be used if you have an oily skin; if, however, it remains in a blob it is oil based and should be used on dry skins and not on oily skins. The next thing is to choose the color. from a wide variety of colors now available, it should not be too difficult to choose a shade that matches the natural coloring of your face.

How safe are eye cosmetics?

The regulations governing the manufacture of eye cosmetics should, ideally, be very strict. Only those chemicals which will definitely not cause any damage to the eyes should be used. The preservatives in eye cosmetics must not only be safe, but also be strong enough to preserve the product. Most instances of infection and injury to the eyes are a result of careless application and use of cosmetics rather than due to any of its ingredients. So it is important to follow simple rules of cleanliness and hygiene when using eye cosmetics: wash your hands before touching your eyes; never borrow or lend any item of eye make-up; never use saliva or dirty water to moisten eye make-up. Allergic reactions to eye make-up are however, not uncommon; the solution to this problem is to stop using ht eye-cosmetic which has caused the reaction.

But, remember that reactions around the eyes are not always due to eye-cosmetics, but may be due to the nail varnish or the hair-dye you have used. A myth that really needs to be dispelled is that eye-cosmetics cause eyelashes to fall out. Like all body hair, your eyelashes grow, fall off and are replaced cyclically. It is just that while you are using eye-cosmetics you tend to become aware of this loss and you may wrongly blame the cosmetics.

Lining of the eyes:

Eyeliners, including our own indigenous kaajal are the most extensively used form of eye make-up. Liners outline the eye and are particularly attractive in deeper toning colors (to match the eye shadow). The earlier cake type of liner has now been somewhat replaced by liquids and pencils. The liquid liners are sold in bottles either with a separate sable brush or in an automatic-unit with the brush built in to the cap. The product may be either water- based (when it is susceptible to wetting with water) or alcohol based (when it is water proof). Our own kaajal has also undergone a considerable improvement from cake to stick and now to a pencil, which is so easy to use.

The eye shadow you choose should flatter and enhance your eye color and the shape of your eyes, as well as your whole appearance. The skin color, the eye color, and your lifestyle need to be considered when choosing and using eye shadow. Although there are no hard and fast rules for choosing the color of your eye shadow it is best to find out by experimenting with colors. But always harmonize the color of the eye shadow with that of your skin and your eyes.

Whatever the color, it should be blended in well, so that there are no harsh lines. Aim always for a natural look. Apart from color, there is a choice of forms of the eye shadows. You can choose from pressed powders, pencils, sticks, gels, crayons, and creams. Pressed powders are still the most popular form of shadows, because they are easy to apply and control. These are available in pearly and matt textures. The effect is not long lasting, but if you apply them with a wet brush, you can get a deeper effect and increase the staying qualities of the color. The cream shadows are oil or wax based. They are best suited for dry crepey lids and should be avoided on greasy lids.

Sticks are a firmer form of cream shadow and look quite like lipsticks. Pencils have, however, almost totally replaced sticks and crayons. They have a higher color and filling ability. Gels are suited for greasy skins. These give a long lasting, subtle and translucent effect. Liquid shadows also have a long lasting effect, but are difficult to apply because it is difficult to get an even flow of color with them.

Mascara coats the lashes, making them thick, long, lustrous and more noticeable. You can choose from 3 different forms of mascara – water based, water proof and the mixed variety. Water based mascaras can be applied quickly because they dry rapidly. They can also be removed easily, so they are gentle to the lashes and the eyes. But there are several problems with their use: because the water evaporates quickly, the lashes tend to clump together; as the film is not water-proof, the mascara smudges easily when it comes in contact with water, tears, and perspiration;

Because of the high water content, these products are difficult to preserve and have a short shelf life. Because of these disadvantages of water based mascaras, the water proof variety has become popular. Water-proof mascaras are generally long wearing, water proof and smudge proof; but they are difficult to remove and you may have to use a cosmetic cleaner to remove them. Because they take long to dry, they have a tendency to smear unless you are careful. Though they color and appear to lengthen the lashes well, they do not thicken them much. They are however, a good investment, because they are resistant to contamination and can be used even years after they have been manufactured. The third variety of mascara is a combination of the earlier two types. These dry quickly, produce little or no smudging and are the latest in the field of mascaras.

The under eye concealers:

The under-eye concealers are intended to hide blemishes, imperfection and dark circle under the eyes. They are more opaque than regular make-up but still need to be matched to the skin tone. They are so formulated that the subsequent application of make-up does not remove them.